MEA Weekly Picture from Israel

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Avir resting up at a camel ranch in the Negev

Avir has had a busy day. He set off early for a swim in the Dead Sea and we will see that picture in a couple of weeks. Now he taking the opportunity to relax in this beautiful desert setting. This camel ranch is very popular and visitors come from all over the world to see not only the beautiful camels but also to experience staying overnight in a simple hut in the middle of the desert—the air is so clean and the camel rides are definitely adventurous. So, after a 45 minute drive from the Dead Sea, the hammock looked a great place to unwind.
Next to him is a bronze sculpture called “The Lone Camel Rider”. The date palms pictured here climb high into the sky towering over Avir and offering him a little shade. These palm trees grow close to near desert springs and provide food, shelter and shade. They are even featured in the Bible as metaphors or poetry—one example being in Psalm 92:12 “the righteous himself will blossom forth as a palm tree does”.

This particular area is near the old Incense Trade Route which connected Arabia to the Mediterranean Sea, passing through this region in the Negev, in the south of Israel. This trade route led to the development of ancient towns, forts, many travelling caravans and various agricultural locations. The spices and incense such as frankincense and myrrh became a lucrative trade.
Camels have played an important role as ‘ships in the desert’ throughout the history of the Negev Desert, for they can walk more than 100 kilometres each day, and very soon Avir will experience a camel ride himself.

MEA Weekly Picture from Israel

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Avir at Ein Gedi getting very wet in the lower waterfall

Avir has just got out of the strong rush of water from the falls above. The water is quite cold and exhilarating, not always best for the feint-hearted who don’t appreciate swimming in cold water. His friends who have just emerged from a waterfall-bath themselves are enjoying the break and sitting under the overhanging trees adjacent to this lower waterfall.

This living landscape is where David hid from King Saul (1 Sam. 24:1-22) and King Solomon wrote about in his lovely poem Song of Songs. These are also other biblical stories connected to the Ein Gedi Nature Reserve on the shore of the Dead Sea, an oasis made all the more entrancing by its contrast with the surrounding desert. The sprightly animals that gave the site its biblical name, the “crags of the wild goats” (1 Sam. 24:2), rest at the cave entrances and walk the reserve.

The water gurgling through the tangled reeds and under shady acacias once nourished the beds of spices mentioned also in the Song of Solomon (1:14). The remains of a town and a synagogue with a mosaic floor tell the dramatic story of Ein Gedi’s people two-thousand years ago and in the following centuries.

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 Avir at Ein Gedi looking at the three waterfalls

Avir, dressed in black and standing top right of the picture, is taking a photo of three spectacular falls, in the Ein Gedi Oasis and Nature Reserve. Ein Gedi is located west of the Dead Sea, near Masada and near the Qumran Caves. The name Ein Gedi is composed of two Hebrew words, Ein meaning ‘spring’ and Gedi meaning ‘goat-kid’. Thus Ein Gedi means “Kid spring”.

Many overseas tourists, as well as locals, visit this historically unique part of Israel because it is only a one-hour south from Jerusalem. Ein Gedi is one of the most popular nature sites in Israel, whether you are a family group or an experienced hiker. The day we visited these falls, called Wadi David, the water was plentiful, overflowing and moving quite fast.  The first of the three falls we see is in the bottom-left of the photo, then, as we move our eyes upward we see the second and the third falls. Each of the falls is a little different and we see groups of visitors sitting relaxing, having a picnic or swimming in the down-rush of water as it cascades over the falls.

Avir found the water very invigorating because it was both cold and fast.  The smaller waterfall has a little lush ‘oasis’ area and a shallow pool which one can lie down in. Some people enjoyed sitting under the overhanging trees edging the flowing waterfalls. We gazed in awe at these springs—a source of beauty juxtaposed beside the harsh desert surroundings.

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 Avir In the ruins of the Masada Synagogue

Avir is sitting on one of the benches along the wall of the ancient synagogue which served the Jewish rebels living in Masada before the Roman army finally captured this small mountain in AD73. It was a bitter-sweet victory for the Romans as the Jewish defenders decided to mass suicide rather than surrender and die, or worse, to be taken as slaves.

The synagogue comprised four tiers of plastered benches along the walls, as well as columns to support its ceiling. The hall measured 12.5 x 10.5 metres, and was incorporated into the north-western section of Masada. This particular synagogue which predates the destruction of the second Temple of Jerusalem in 70 C.E., is considered to be a good example of synagogues at this time.

The site was identified in 1842, but intensive excavations began in 1955 by Professor Yadin along with volunteers from many countries. Some of the amazing archaeological finds included an ancient ‘ostracon’ which is an inscribed potsherd. This example bears the Hebrew inscription me’aser kohen meaning ‘tithe for the priest’. Ostraca were common writing materials used mainly for writing receipts, temporary records or lists of names which had Hebrew lettering on them. Other articles found included fragments of two scrolls, parts of Deuteronomy and Ezekiel 37 (including the vision of the “dry bones”). These were found hidden in pits dug under the floor of a small room built inside the synagogue. Other small finds of artifacts, include pottery and stone vessels, coins and shekels. There were also weapons (mainly arrowheads), remnants of textiles and foodstuffs preserved in the dry climate of this area.

A heavy black ragged line has been painted on the back wall of the synagogue behind where Avir is sitting. This line divides the top section of the wall which is the restored part and below is the original wall found at the time of the excavation.

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Avir is making his way down a steep descent to the Northern Palace of King Herod, situated at Masada.   King Herod, ruled Israel on behalf of the Roman Empire at the end of the first century B.C.E.  During his reign he built splendid cities, fortresses and villas.  At Masada, he built two massive constructions on this mountain top.  This included two luxurious palaces, a swimming pool, several lavish bathhouses, and a giant water system.  Hence became known as King Herod the Great.

The Northern Palace is located on the highest part of the mountain.  It is built on three levels along the northern edge of the cliff and commands magnificent views of the Dead Sea, the adjoining mountains and desert.   On the upper terrace of the Northern Palace one can find the remains of the living quarters for the king and a semi-circular portico.  A stairway continue down to the middle terrace that was a decorative circular reception hall.  The lower terrace was also for receptions and banquets. It was enclosed on all four side with porticos and included a Roman bathhouse.    The bath house was not only for washing but also for relaxing, enjoying spa-type treatments and for socializing.  Private bath houses were a luxury afforded for only the very wealthy, especially those living on Masada in the middle of the desert, where water was a rare and valuable commodity.

 

Masada National Park was declared a United Nations World Heritage Site in 2001.

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Avir at the Byzantine West Gate in the ruins at Masada

Avir is taking a photo close by to part of the Masada fortress, known as the Byzantine West Gate which was so named by Byzantine Monks who lived here in the 5th Century onwards. The settlement consisted of a small group of monks who built “cells” scattered over the summit.  Some also probably lived in caves because of the crosses that were painted on the walls.  It is assumed that they were forced to leave this location when the Persian conquest of Judea began in the 7th Century.  The Monks were the last inhabitants of Masada, which left Masada unoccupied and ‘lost’ to antiquity until it was rediscovered in 1838 by an American named Edward Robinson.

Today, visitors to Masada can either walk up to the top along the very steep and ancient ‘Snake Path’ or by cable car which provides spectacular views of the surrounding landscape right across Ein-Gedi National Park and the Dead Sea.

A visit to Masada offer a thrilling and exciting experience.  The chilling stories and the archaeological remains contribute to a special atmosphere preserved by historic events and the imagination of a time when a David and Goliath battle took place, but with a different outcome.

You will see more of Avir and his exploring of Masada next time.